The Cinque Terre towns are enchanting but there is also Portovenere that is wonderfully beautiful. All these towns, along with Portovenere’s islands, are UNESCO World Heritage sites and the hiking provides spectacular views!
Start your hike off in Portovenere after a great breakfast at a seaside coffee bar. The trail begins in the main square Piazza Bastreri with steps up and behind the Castello Doria. From here you can hike to the first Cinque Terre town of Riomaggiore. This is the longest of the trails, just about 13 kilometers and takes around 6 hours depending of your experience level. The highest point is 575 meters. You will need proper hiking gear: hiking shoes, backpack, water, snacks, sun screen, bug spray, a hat and walking sticks because you may need them. As this is not a beginner’s trail you should be careful.
While climbing the stone steps up high above the castle, you will have the most stunning views of Portovenere’s islands: Palmaria, Tino e Tinetto. Once at the top you come to an asphalted path and then you join the CAI trail (red and white markings), this is trail #1. After about 2 hrs and 5.5 km, you come to the town of Campiglia. Here you can stop and have a bite to eat while you build up the motivation to continue on. Remember to get more water if you are out. If you change your mind and decide you do not want to continue hiking you can find a bus from Campiglia to La Spezia and then take the train to continue on visiting the Cinque Terre towns.
Hiking on from Campiglia, still on trail #1, for about 3.5 km, roughly 1.5 to 2 hrs, you arrive at the next stop and the highest point: Colle Telegrafo. You can make another rest stop here as there is a place to eat something quick plus a small church to visit.
Hiking on from Colle Telegrafo you will take trail #3 and you will enter the National Park of the Cinque Terre and begin the decent to Riomaggiore. You will be walking through a magical wonderland of vineyards, hand made stone walls and fruit trees, all typical of the area. Along the decent you will come to the Sanctuary of the Madonna di Montenero, perched 250 mt above the sea, this is worth a stop as this sanctuary is famous throughout Liguria and can only be reached on foot.
Once you are in Riomaggiore, The Via dell’Amore (1 km) is the most famous and romantic stretch of the Cinque Terre coastline, that takes you to Manarola on a one/way route. It is a paved, flat walking path, not so much a hike but rather a pleasant stroll affording spectacular views of the cliffs and the sea. It is equipped with handrails and benches along the way making it ideal for an easy hike.
From Manarola you take the train (and a short bus) to Corniglia. The Azure Trail is then open from Corniglia to Vernazza, and from Vernazza to Monterosso. You will need to buy a hiking trail ticket at the entrance of the trail at Corniglia.
The Via dell’Amore is accessible with the purchase of a Cinque Terre Trekking Card (10 – 15 euros/day) or the Cinque Terre Treno Card, which costs from 22 euros to 35 euros a day depending on the season.
The Cinque Terre Cards can be purchased on the day at every train station in Cinque Terre, Levanto and La Spezia.
To avoid the queues you can buy the Cinque Terre Cards online on the Cinque Terre National Park website.
Enjoy the hike and the views! And remember to stay at Casemaggi in Portovenere.