Pesto in pasta, in pizza, drizzled over slices of tomato and mozzarella, spread on toasted bread, and many other ways to enjoy this fresh basil garlicky paste. There are many types of pesto across Italy. But in Liguria, there are strict formulas that must be followed to be considered genuine pesto.
What is pesto?
Although the term “pesto” is associated with the green sauce, both in Italy and globally, the term itself means something that is simply crushed up. The word “pesto” is the past participle of the Genovese verb pestâ (Italian: pestare), which means to pound, to crush. In traditional preparation, the ingredients were crushed in a marble mortar using a wooden pestle.
In Portovenere, sellers of pesto fall into two camps: those who insist on only the original or “authentic” Genovese formula, and others who prefer local variations.
No need to take sides, because its all good, especially when topping off a bowl of “trofie” pasta with the addition of potatoes and green beans (a typical ways of serving pesto in the region).
A warm plate of pasta with pesto is a healthy and delicious beginning or end to a long hike along the trails of Portovenere, Palmaria Island or the Cinque Terre.
Pesto Genovese
To qualify as true Genovese pesto, the basil leaves must be at least 25% of the total volume, and must have been grown in the Ligurian region. Most of the other ingredients must be certified from Italy’s other well-known regions: the garlic, extra virgin olive oil, sea salt, Parmigiano-Reggiano (Parmesan cheese).
By Italian government regulation, if the green paste does not include these ingredients, it cannot be called “pesto Genovese”.
Only the pine nuts may originate outside of Italy (they can come from throughout Europe) or, in the place of pine nuts, walnuts (which must come from the Mediterranean area).
The origins of pesto
Pesto is said to have originated during the time of the ancient Romans, who ate a paste of crushed garlic, salt, cheese, herbs, olive oil and vinegar. During the Middle Ages, a popular sauce in the Genovese cuisine was agliata, a mash of garlic and walnuts. Garlic was a common ingredient in the dishes of seafaring Ligurians.
But it was not until an import from India, basil, was introduced as an ingredient in middle of the 19th century that pesto took on its modern form.
Let’s walk the Portovenere pesto trail
After your morning coffee, set out to the town’s main square, through the arch entrance on the fortress wall, and walk up via Capellini.
A Snack of Pesto Pizza
At the Focacerria Fatti una Pizza, in via Capellini 36, you will find freshly made pizzas by the slice, including a delicious pesto-covered pizza. Some have a slice in the shop, others outside, and others have it wrapped to go and take the narrow stairwell to enjoy a treat by the sea.
Pesto in a cup
Portovenere boasts a small pesto factory in the center of via Capellini, Bajeicò: La Bottega del Pesto (via Capellini, 70), where you can get a ‘cup’ of cold pesto pasta to go.
Laura Massa leads a crew who make fresh pesto daily from the shop that has been in her family for over 100 years. They sell fresh pesto by the jar (with and without garlic) and on pasta in cups.
A Plate of Freshly Made Pesto Pasta
For a more robust lunch after a hike, walk over to via del Olivo, 267, to The Bar Atlantic. This casual beachfront bar offers freshly made pastas among with many other options. Their Trofie al Pesto, as well as the Manzecotte al Pesto, are both worth the walk.
Don’t make the same mistake we did in asking the owner if his pesto is freshly made (unless to provoke a shocked reaction).
Dinner and Pesto
For dinner out, all of Portovenere’s restaurants will have pesto on their menus.
At Trattoria Da Iseo, just in front of the boat and yachts dock at the entrance to the port, owner Gianbattista Basso always has a delicious plate of pesto for those not in the mood for one of their famous, locally-caught fish, even if it is not on the menu. And Iseo is always ready to ferry diners on one of their Venetian speedboats to Palmaria Island, where they dock at his father’s restaurant, the Locanda Lorena (a well-earned mention in the Michelin guide). Depending on the catch of the day and the season, Giuseppe Basso may decide to include in his pesto ingredients from Palmaria’s gardens or its surrounding waters.
A pesto tour is only one way to enjoy Portovenere with its trails, magical sea, historical sites and its pesto. Enjoy!
Maggi & Mike
CaseMaggi Vacation Home Rentals in Florence & Portovenere, Italy
Header photo by Alissa De Leva on Unsplash.